During caddis fly emergence, trout will frequently feed exclusively on caddis fly pupa. Variations of this fly will work well throughout the year. I have found it to be indispensable for lower elevation lakes (2000' - 3500') in March and April.

• Down Eye Scud or Pupa hook size 10 - 18
• Tan, Black, or White Thread
• Dark Olive Larva Lace
• Brass Bead
• Olive and Tan Dubbing (rabbit fur, seal fur, or artificial)

The Bead
The easiest way to get the bead on the hook is to use a pair of forceps to hold it while you slide the hook through the hole in the bead. With some beads, the hole will be larger on one side than the other. If you find this to be the case, orient the small side forward so that it ends up closest to the eye of the hook. Clamp in vise.

Tie on Thread
Tie on thread with a series of half hitches and wrap hook starting by the bead and working your way back to the midpoint of the bend. Apply a small thin amount of head cement to the wrapped portion of the hook.

Attach Larva Lace
Larva Lace is translucent soft plastic tubing which you can find at most fly shops. Tie it onto the topside of the hook starting from the back at the midpoint of the bend. I tie it in to the point I want my dubbing to start. This provides consistency of shape for the body. Trim excess.

Wrapping Larva Lace
The Larva Lace is a soft material. By applying some tension as you wrap it around the hook, it will flatten. Tie off at the point you want the dubbing to start with a half a dozen wraps of thread. Because the next step is dubbing, a few half hitches will fimrly secure the Larva Lace while you prepare the dubbing.

Dubbing
I like a rough finish to my dubbing for this fly so I make the dubbing relatively thick and loose on the thread. For this fly I use a combination of olive and light brown fur. I have found seal fur to work very well for sunny fishing conditions because it's translucent and refracts light. This example was tied with rabbit fur.

Wrapping the Dubbing
Wrap the hook with the dubbing to the back of the bead leaving just enough room for your finish knot. Apply a few wraps of thread to secure the dubbing and remove any excess from the thread.

Whip Finish
Whip finish the fly. For this fly I find the Auto Bobbin finish to be much easier to tie than the traditional whip. Apply head cement to the knot. Pull a little of the dubbing forward to cover the knot.

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Dubbed Beadhead Caddis Pupae

The body is olive dubbing.

Marabou Caddis Pupae

"This variation of the beadhead caddis is a deadly pattern for me on the East Carson and East Walker Rivers. The tying process is the same as shown for the beadhead caddis pupae, with a few crucial changes. The marabou moves and waves in the water, giving the body a lifelike quality."-Mark Wiza

• Bead: glass bead, black or gunmetal
• Rib: fine silver wire, tied in at rear of hook.
• Body: 10 to 20 long herls of marabou; tan, brown, olive or chartreuse to match body of naturals. Tie in by the tips at the rear of the hook, substituting for the Larva Lace body. Wrap forward, covering three-quarters of shank. Tie marabou off, then counterwrap wire rib forward and tie off, trimming both.
• Legs: Several fibers of mallard flank tied in at the front of the marabou body on both sides, so that the legs sprout from just behind the thorax, angling back and beneath the body. Legs should meet or extend past the hookpoint.
• Thorax: Dark hare's ear dubbing, with plenty of guard hairs for 'buggy' effect. I like black hare's ear blended with a small amount of shiny, synthetic dubbing in brown or olive.

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March and April in far Northern California, inland and north of Redding, fish lower elevation lakes (2000'-3500'), where there is abundant aquatic vegetation which has died back during winter. I have great success lake fishing this fly along the edge of weedbeds in 10 - 20 feet of water. I fish this fly with a strike indicator on a sink tip line, or with a small float on a floating tip line. Use short slow strips.

Richard Alves
Fort Jones, CA

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