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  1. #19
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Yep, it's enough, as long as you're not drifting too fast. Definitely give them a shot. It's honestly easy fishing.

  2. #18
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Thanks for the suggestion, Kyle, I don't have any of those but have always wondered how they would work for stripers. I'll be snagging a few. Is the 1/2 oz enough weight to feel the bottom when drifting?

  3. #17
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    If you were on schools of fish, throw this next time. Blade bait. 1/2 oz .

    http://www.cincyfisher.com/?product=blade-bait-2

    Cast, let it drop to bottom, rip it up, let it flutter down....repeat, repeat, repeat. Even when the stripes are not feeding you'll get reaction strikes from the fish on the bottom. I've been doing it with my 8 yr old son and 6 yr old daughter for the past 2 months as a back up plan after I repeatedly strike out on bass fishing....lol....different story. We haven't caught any monsters, but up to 25 inch fish. This is most likely because I'm not on schools of bigger fish. I've done this in the Molekumne, SJ, all around Franks, and even down in Old River. It's pretty fool proof. Like I said, my little girl is usually good for a few, and she still can't get any strength behind the "rip".

    Here is a great article from which I learned the technique back on the Potomac a few years ago in Virginia. Like the author mentions, we would get fish in 38 degree water to eat this bait. They weren't eating, they were cold, and sitting on the bottom, but couldn't resist that vibration.

    http://www.baybass.com/node/217

    I'm not advertising cincy fisher....it's just a small online tackle store that sells excellent quality blade baits for cheap. I've never bought them anywhere else, but you can find all kinds in any fishing store. Hope this helps put some striper in the boat.

  4. Likes RideNfish, CAL.NDN liked this post
  5. #16
    Member KERPOW's Avatar
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    For rigging assist hooks, try a general internet search for "assist hook on jigging spoon". Fish with JD has some useful info, and so do a lot of other sites.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  6. #15
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    radoncraft, I'm pretty sure he's talking about using an assist hook, which eliminates the use of a treble hook. I've converted most of my spoons to assist hooks but they tend to create line twist, hence, the barrel swivel.
    I like the idea of assist hooks because I catch and release, but I'm not crazy about needing a barrel swivel. I plan on trying what dsa suggested with a single hook at the bottom, hopefully I don't hook any bass too deep.

  7. #14
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Quote Originally Posted by Seaohh View Post
    For spooning I use 40# braid main line tied to a barrel swivel, then tie on a piece of 25# big game mono to a cross lock snap.

    The barrel swivel will eliminate twist and the stuff mono leader will reduce the amount of time that the spoon flops back and tangles.

    Additionally I strongly recommend switching your hooks to the short assist hooks rigged to the top of the spoon. They virtually eliminate snags and are nearly impossible for the fish to shake since they don't have the leverage of the spoon's weight.

    When you get in to a wide open bite you will appreciate the ability to simply grab the 25# leader and swing aboard most anything that you can't bounce directly with the rod. Piece of cake to lip, unhook, release and get on to the next fish.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Seao, so you're saying you connect the cross snap at the top of the spoon along with the Trebble hook??

  8. #13
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    For spooning I use 40# braid main line tied to a barrel swivel, then tie on a piece of 25# big game mono to a cross lock snap.

    The barrel swivel will eliminate twist and the stuff mono leader will reduce the amount of time that the spoon flops back and tangles.

    Additionally I strongly recommend switching your hooks to the short assist hooks rigged to the top of the spoon. They virtually eliminate snags and are nearly impossible for the fish to shake since they don't have the leverage of the spoon's weight.

    When you get in to a wide open bite you will appreciate the ability to simply grab the 25# leader and swing aboard most anything that you can't bounce directly with the rod. Piece of cake to lip, unhook, release and get on to the next fish.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  10. #12
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Thanks again, dsa and radoncraft(and everyone else). Appreciate the feedback, hopefully I'll have better results to report back with next time.

  11. #11
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Quote Originally Posted by dsa2780 View Post
    Yeah, bottom normal ring. Once you hook them with the siwash they rarely every come unpegged, and usually its always through the roof of the mouth and by the nostril.
    I might have to try that swishy thing, sounds interesting. My usual set up is simple, 20 - 30 lb. Mono leader 2 ft length.
    I attached a picture so Ben could see what it looks like. I use ( I think it is called a duo-snap) and most of the time, I snap it direct to the spoon.,but if the spoon comes with a circle ring, I leave it on.
    Just a matter of preference, but I do think the heavy mono is a must.
    Time to go jigging.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  13. #10
    Senior Member dsa2780's Avatar
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    Re: How it went on the SJ, 12/2/17(as promised to radoncraft)

    Yeah, bottom normal ring. Once you hook them with the siwash they rarely every come unpegged, and usually its always through the roof of the mouth and by the nostril.

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