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Thread: Trailer bunks.

  1. #11
    Patron Saint of Forum Moderators redneckpunk's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seon View Post
    Taps Plastic sells the HDPE (Star Board) by the square foot. My boat is a 19' Alumaweld so used 2"x4"x8' long boards. I bought 1/2" thick x 7" wide x 8' long HDPE and had them cut the 8' lengthwise at 3.5" wide. I drilled and counter sunk the hole to fit and clear #8 stainless flathead screw heads, 2 screws side by side about 8" apart.
    I've done this on previous boats bunk board including the Reel Kahuna 22' Pilothouse that still looks and holding good.

    Caution! Do not remove your bow strap until you're boat's stern is very close to or in the water otherwise your boat may slide right off at the top of the ramp .
    Thanks! Ive got a TAP a couple miles from the house. Current bunks are 2x6 so will probably stick with that and go 4 wide on the HDPE when the time comes.

    Great reminder about the strap. My strap and safety chain stay on until the last 2-3 feet on the ramp and are hooked before pulling up the ramp. Because the way my trailer loads I usually have to crank the last foot or so to get snuggled up tight. Seen far too many, usually on rollers, hit the ramp.


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    Thumbs up Re: Trailer bunks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trout Tracker View Post
    Thanks for all the great advise and
    your time.
    I agree that jacking up each side and
    doing this in the back yard would be a lot
    easier than a parking lot at a lake.
    I will take a better look at the boat and
    see if that might work.
    With the doug fir do I need to put a protective coating
    on it before I carpet them?
    All I did was use a couple of applications of wood stain before fastening the carpet thinking it may help preserve the wood. Quick and easy, can't hurt. And placing the jacks in a strategic position is key. It was really quite easy as long as you don't mind working in a prone position under the boat trailer and it's also a good time to inspect the hull.

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  4. #9
    Senior Member Seon's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Quote Originally Posted by redneckpunk View Post
    What thickness HDPE did you go with? And where did you find the best deal?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Taps Plastic sells the HDPE (Star Board) by the square foot. My boat is a 19' Alumaweld so used 2"x4"x8' long boards. I bought 1/2" thick x 7" wide x 8' long HDPE and had them cut the 8' lengthwise at 3.5" wide. I drilled and counter sunk the hole to fit and clear #8 stainless flathead screw heads, 2 screws side by side about 8" apart.
    I've done this on previous boats bunk board including the Reel Kahuna 22' Pilothouse that still looks and holding good.

    Caution! Do not remove your bow strap until you're boat's stern is very close to or in the water otherwise your boat may slide right off at the top of the ramp .

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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Thanks for all the great advise and
    your time.
    I agree that jacking up each side and
    doing this in the back yard would be a lot
    easier than a parking lot at a lake.
    I will take a better look at the boat and
    see if that might work.
    With the doug fir do I need to put a protective coating
    on it before I carpet them?

  7. #7
    Patron Saint of Forum Moderators redneckpunk's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seon View Post
    Agree with non treated Douglas Fir.

    I didn't use carpet on my trailer bunks, I bought strips of HDPE then screwed them onto the boards.
    What thickness HDPE did you go with? And where did you find the best deal? Ive looked at the premanufactured slides but wondering if making my own would be cheaper and worth the effort


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    Senior Member brokea--boater's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    I have used all types of carpet for bunks, and the carpet that is sold by the many trailer parts retailers is the best way to go. Its sold by width's that match your bunk size and different lengths. It conforms easy and will last for some time,,,gregg

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    Senior Member Waterdog's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Good info given so far. Ill just add a little. Do not use treated wood for 2 reasons. First treated wood is lousy wood , it is low grade crap wood. Most of all do not use it with a aluminum boat (I dont know what kind of boat you have) . The chemicals in treated wood can react with aluminum and cause damage.

    As an alternative to wood Look into bunk boards made from polyethelene. One company that sells/makes them is The Ultimate Bunk Boards. These will last for just about ever and there is no need to carpet them. They are impervious to water, rot, breakage and cracking. They or a product like them came on my Rogue trailer with my Alumaweld boat. They are 10 years old and still in perfect shape.
    Hunting, Fishing, Labrador Retrievers and a glass of Forty Creek Barrel Select Canadian Whiskey at the end of the day - Life Is Sweet

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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    I just replaced mine on a 17' Fisher Avenger and was planning to do the same procedure of replacement on a local lake but I was able to do it at home by carefully jacking up one side at a time and replacing each bunk board. It turned out to be quite easy to do with the use of two well placed hydraulic bottle jacks. Depending on the size of the boat you have it may also work in your case and being able to do what needs to be done at home is much better time wise. I used untreated douglas fir and carpeting purchased online. I'm completely pleased with the results. It's worth a try. And if you do try this suggestion be sure to use a wood block between the jack and the hull of your boat (obviously).

  12. #3
    Senior Member Seon's Avatar
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Agree with non treated Douglas Fir.

    I didn't use carpet on my trailer bunks, I bought strips of HDPE then screwed them onto the boards.

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  14. #2
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    Re: Trailer bunks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trout Tracker View Post
    I'm sure that this question has been asked before.
    The Carpet on my bottom trailer bunks need to be replaced
    so I figure I might as well replace the wood also.
    I'm sure that I need a pressure treated wood,if not can
    I treat them with something?The carpet or bunk covering I've
    already found at West Marine.The nuts or bolts I will replace
    also.
    What I plan on doing is going to a local lake dropping the boat
    and then doing all this work in a parking lot.
    That's when the weather warms up.
    Is their anything else I need to know?
    Some try to make bunks a permanent feature of their trailer by using all sorts of different materials. My advice is to keep them as a serviceable part of your trailer. Use untreated long grain wood like Douglas Fir that is readily available at most big box stores. For carpet, use non latex backed material like the carpet you can get at West Marine. That type of carpet drains well and will go a long way towards keeping the wood and your hull in good shape.

    For hardware, I like to use carriage bolts that are counter sunk on the hull side. Others prefer lag bolts from the underside. Use zinc plated and replace them each time you replace your bunks. You can also use stainless hardware but it's rare to see anyone doing that on the bunks.

    The first time I refresh my bunks, I write down all the measurements and put that away. This way I can have them all made up in advance so the next time is quick and simple.

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