We arrived in Prince Rupert via the Queen of the North ferry at midnight after a rainy 15 hour voyage up the Inside Passage. Our plan was to camp 4 nights on the eastern edge of the world's largest temperate rain forest. My wife Deborah was questioning that decision over breakfast the following morning. However, by the time we got groceries, walked through the Museum of Northern BC, checked out Slickers Rain Gear Warehouse and the local totem poles, the sun was out along with the spectacular scenery. Packed and rested, we hit the Yellowhead Highway for Terrace, two hours east.

About half way there, traffic was stopped for road construction, Railroad construction. Two weeks earlier, an afternoon storm combined with snowmelt brought the Skeena up and had taken out about 300 feet of track adjacent to the highway. The ever-friendly Canadians have a unique way of passing the time during these delays. They all get out of their cars and talk until it is time to move on.

I got talking with the gentleman in the pick-up behind ours, never did catch his name, who was on his way to Terrace to fish for a couple of days. "The fish are here, you just have to be patient," he said. "Last year was fantastic, I caught 42 springers. This year only 11 so far," he added. At this point it was time to move on, so everyone got back in their vehicle and drove on.

After setting up camp on the shore of a nearby secluded lake, we drove to the Nicolas Dean Lodge to meet our fishing host, owner, Dustin Kovacvich. The small lodge can accommodate up to 10 guests and also provide guide services for non-guests. Dustin wasted little time getting us over to the freezer to show off the 72-pound springer one of the guests had landed the day before. "Her husband is still flabbergasted. She has out fished him all week," he said.

The "River of Mists" was living up to her reputation when we hit the water the following morning. Steam drifted up off the river as drizzle came down from above. We arrived at Roy's Bar, the closest slot to fish due to closures, and got set up for plunking. Because of the size of the river, the preferred method of fishing is from shore. "You will have more fish see your bait here than if you try and take it to them," Dustin told us. "The vast majority of migratory fish coming up river pass right through this slot," he said.

Dustin set out the 9 foot rods. The bait casting reels had 200 yards of 50 lb. line. The terminal tackle was a Spin 'n Glow, or a Winged Cheater, with a bead and a hootchie on the hook. (Our guide the following day added roe to the rigs.) This was held to the bottom with 14 oz. sinker on a 12" dropper.

We pulled out the folding chairs and waited and waited and waited. It was nearing lunchtime when Albert, a friend of Dustin and full First Nations (native American), hooked a steelhead about 50 yards down river. He was waist deep in the water battling the fish while yelling, "I'm catching you lunch Dustin, I'm catching you lunch," knowing Dustin doesn't kill wild steelhead. That was the only fish we saw all day.

The following morning we arrived at the lodge to find our scheduled guide had a run-in with a bear the day before. He had successfully managed to fend off the critter by smacking it on the nose with his fly rod breaking it in the process, but had lost his backpack with his license, lunch and wallet in the skirmish. He was going to spend the day trying to recover his gear.

Sky was called in as his replacement on his day off. As we cruised down river, a bear watched us from the top of a 50-foot pile of driftwood. Sky told us about his family, siblings Autumn, Fawn, Forest and Sun. "My parents were hippies, Eh!" he said.

Having missed out on fresh fish for lunch the day before, we had resorted to the old high mountain trout insurance plan, bringing a couple of steaks. I've had more steaks go bad in the cooler but it never fails, leave the steak at home and the fish don't bite! The Skeena rewarded us with a three-pound pink salmon at 11:30, right on time for lunch. Sky deftly started a fire on the beach with a flint stick and a ball of moss and soon we were grilling salmon.

I was beginning to get frustrated; I had fished Vancouver Island for three days the week before without even hooking a king, and had fished a day and a half on the Skeena and had not even seen one. Time was running out!

The sun was out and it was turning into the hottest day of the summer. We had stripped down to our waders, and, as the water temp was in the low 50's, sat in the river to keep cool! One of the rods popped against the rod holder with a loud bang and the reel began singing. I jumped up, grabbed the rod and set the hook. The fish responded by nearly pulling me into the river.

I started chasing the fish down river when about half the spool was gone. I was fortunate as the fish turned up river and headed across the fast water. I thought I was getting things under control when the fish got into the main channel and tore off downstream. It was obvious this was my springer! Again I followed the fish down river. Each run of the fish brought me nearer to the end of the bar. Unable to give more ground, line peeled off my spool. Slowly I was able to gain line and ground on the fish. One more giant run across the river was all the 30-pound hen had left in her. We took a quick photo and released her for the journey up river to spawn.

I have never fought a salmon with that kind of spirit and power. I wonder what fighting a 50-pounder would be like!

The Nicolas Dean Lodge is full-service providing guided fishing for guests and non-guests. Pricing is very modest with weeklong trips including airfare being under $2,000.00 USD.

Phone 250.635.8835
EMAIL: bcflyfishing@monarch.net

Getting There

Regular air service is available between Vancouver and Terrace. The lodge will pick you up at the airport. Travel time from California is one day.

You can drive, about 1,900 miles from Sacramento via Prince George or you can catch the ferry in Tsawwassen (Vancouver) to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, drive to Port Hardy at the northern end of the island where you can catch the Queen of the North ferry to Prince Rupert 2 hours west of Terrace. Plan on 2.5 days travel time after reaching Vancouver.