View Full Version : lead molds

09-12-2005, 06:18 PM
i picked up a 5" diamond jig bar mold made of brass
i ran a coat hanger from one end to the other and tried to poor molten lead in
it kept clogging up so i drilled the hole larger still would clogg
tried heating the brass mold with wire in it and still clogged while trying to fill the mold
1)is it because it is a heavy brass mold?
2)is it because i am running the wire completly down the entire length of the mold?
3)is it because i am stuipid and should just buy my gear?

i vote # 3

any help on this would be great
tired of spending 2 bucks and more per lb for weights
need to save money for fuel
was hoping to get this jig mold to work and then purchase a few more (8oz,12oz,16oz, and maybe a 10# for the wires)


09-12-2005, 06:37 PM
1)is it because it is a heavy brass mold?

Brass can be a great mold, but it needs to be real hot to allow the lead to flow peoperly.

As you found out the lead will not flow properly if it's too cool nor will it flow properly into a mold that's too cool as well.

I put ny molds up where the fire will heat them and then I'll pour a few test shots to test the flow. If the lead still won't flow the problem is it's probably still too cool

2)is it because i am running the wire completly down the entire length of the mold?

What is the wire for?

3)is it because i am stuipid and should just buy my gear?

You thrive on abuse don't you.


Pre-Heating and Smoking Mold
Place your mold on top of the furnace to pre-heat the mold while the lead is melting. Mold should
sit on the mold sides with both sides in contact of the furnace. Take extra caution not to melt your
plastic handles. These handles are made of PVC and are very strong, but will melt at high
temperatures. If you melt your handles, it's your responsibility. Next, you may want to smoke your
mold. This process is done with a candle and will enable your parts to be released from the mold
easily. The mold cavities should be ugly black when properly smoked. Now let's check and clean
the parting surface of your mold. Carefully inspect for dirt or lead build-up on the parting surface.
Close mold and hold up to light to make sure mold closes completely or your parts will have "flash".
Next, you must check to make sure your hooks, wires, and eyelets fit the mold and the mold closes
completely. Hilts Molds are machined very precise. Hook numbers are on every mold. Our inserts fit our molds. If you use other inserts make sure they fit properly or we disclaim our warranty.

Warming Your Mold
Do not use Acetylene Torch. You must pre-heat your mold and all tools to produce quality parts.
This is easiest done by placing the mold over your lead pot.

Casting Parts
Now close your mold and make some trial parts (without any inserts). Do this 2 or 3 times until
your mold produces a good finished part. A good finished part is a part without visible fracture lines
in the lead. Be careful, without inserts your mold may leak through!
Now put your insert in place. After closing the mold you may lay the mold on your table and gently
tap with a piece of lead to seat inserts or hooks. Make a casting. As soon as your mold is full you
can open it. Lead cools quickly and will not run out.
Any time you stop casting metal for more than 2 minutes, put your mold back over the lead furnace
(as in pre-heating) to keep the mold warm.

Eyelets sometimes are hard to load into mold. Rub a bar of soap on eyelet cavity. This will hold
eyelet perfectly.
After using your mold a while, it is normal to have lead build up on the parting surface. Remove this
with a file. Be sure the file lays flat. Do not remove any of the mold material.
The lead will load your file. Clean the file by rubbing the edge of a penny from side to side on it.

Removal and Trimming Molded Parts
Casting with larger hooks (spinner baits, larger jigs): These can easily be grabbed by hand and
pulled out. Do not grab newly molded lead! If you cannot grab the hook or wire by hand, pliers must be used to grab the casting at the gate area and remove. Do not use screwdriver or pry casting
loose with anything. You may damage your mold.
Molding small jigs from a bottom pour pot: Bring the mold in firm contact with the spout- lift the
handle- count 1-2-3-4 - release- and open the mold.

09-12-2005, 06:45 PM
Sounds like you went to Humboldt State's Industrial Arts program.... ;D.....

Good job Jan

that's an old timers trick with the candle...haven't heard anyone describe it so well..we used to burn cork...it puts out more soot....

09-12-2005, 06:50 PM
i edited the message because i had a 5 foot jig mold instead of a 5" diamond bar jig
hope that explains the reason for the wire to run completly through the jig

as for thriving on abuse

and thank you very much for the info
i was trying to dig something up surfing but determined to post it here while i was digging

thanks again Jan


09-13-2005, 04:09 PM
Get some brass or stainless for the eyes, coat hanger will rust real bad after one dip in the salt water.

09-13-2005, 04:19 PM
the way the kids go through lures
rust will not be a problem
actually i was just doing test runs with the coat hanger
the brass rod is out at the ranch shop and i was playing at home with an electric bbq bricket starter and a propane torch with a 6" cast iron skillet

again i thank you for the information and will try again using better techniques


09-13-2005, 04:24 PM
Sounds like you went to Humboldt State's Industrial Arts program.... ;D.....

Good job Jan

that's an old timers trick with the candle...haven't heard anyone describe it so well..we used to burn cork...it puts out more soot....

HSU?? Nah, they won't let me near the place...I'm a Republican Lol Lol Lol ;D

But I have poured a ton or two of sinkers over the years, I used to provide some of the San Diego boats with sinkers they got the sinks at my cost (About .30 a pound) and I got to go fishing a lot.

I had one boat that had a standing order for 100 3# leads every Wednesday morning, one cold and frosty December morning with the tide out (Floating dock at H&M) me, a dock cart, 300 pounds of sinkers and my fishing gear took Mr. Toads wild ride down the dock and almost into the drink.

The ramp to the dock had a little frost on it and I was wearing my rubber deck boots so I had zero traction, sure got the old heart pumping early. lol

It got to the point where I was going through about a thousand pounds of lead a week and having to take my vacation time off my regular phone company job to keep up with the demand for sinkers.

Plus the scrap place told me I needed to start filling out EPA paperwork for handling haz mat stuff so that was the end.

The best molds around are the Hilts molds, although Do It does make a pretty good 1/4 - 3/8 oz removable splitshot mold if you are going to invest in jig head or sinker molds go with the Hilts line.

09-14-2005, 04:14 PM
If you are using tire weights, these are hard lead and must be a little hotter than normal lead. The hard lead solidifies much quicker. I use tire weights and make sure they are well melted with the scum skimmed off, and pour fast into a warm mold. Don't get that brass too hot, as some molds will warp. I have a few brass round ball molds for my muzzleloaders that will do this.
if your wire is partially blocking the sprue, it could be causing the lead to cool before filling the mold.
Pouring your own weights and lures does save some money. I need to order a few more molds myself.

09-16-2005, 08:45 AM
soap and soot real good advice. i have just finished pouring 6-10 lb down rigger weights shaped like a fish. used brass welding rod. they stay hot a long time. I also brought the lead to where it was purple in the pot. seemed to work better. weight was shiny and came out of the mold easy. colder lead came out harder and was not shiny. I got some spray plastic from harbor freight and used it to keep weights insulated from water for electralis and electric charge on boat and down rigger cable with insulator.

09-16-2005, 08:59 AM
Where did you come up with the fish mold somebody?

Cotter pins aslo work well for loops