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June first
02-21-2010, 10:40 AM
I have a Lowrance fishfinder/gps on my boat and it makes a pretty loud rapid clicking noise from the transducer when the sonar is running. Is this normal?
I have had some trouble putting fish in the boat, but figured it was due to my lack of experience...... I have had quite a few people that think my boat is hot, but checked my voltage and it is OK. I even changed out my downrigger cable to braided line, so I am pretty sure it is not a voltage thing.
Could it be the clicking noise from my sonar unit that seems to chase the fish away? :D >:( :-[
I have been thinking of getting another sonar unit and leaving the existing unit for GPS only (instead of using the split screen only)
What sonar only unit would you guys reccomend?
Thanks,
Brandon

Seon
02-21-2010, 01:21 PM
Double post.

Hlawatyr
02-21-2010, 02:06 PM
[smiley=alberte8zp.gif]What model do you have and the year maybe other's here on the board have the same and can give some input. [smiley=sherlock.gif]

ReelJerks
02-22-2010, 01:13 AM
The 'clicking' noise is normal and it's definitely not effecting your catch rate.

Your second question requires a budget figure from you, as well as what size display you are comfortable with.

Edd

Dennis
02-24-2010, 02:46 AM
The clicking sound is normal.*

At this time of the year you should be long lining it.* At Camanche I start around 90' back and have been as far back as 240'.* Just keep adding length to your setback until you start getting some hits.* 60' isn't going to typically cut it.* Camanche has a very good water clarity and the fish will move away from your boat especially a 22'er at this time of the year.*
Next use side planners.* I typically will catch 60 to 80% of my fish using the side planners.* The small Seps are a good start.* Still use a fairly long setback.* Vary your speed, S-turns stop and start from time to time and you should catch fish.*

When they talk about a hot boat this is what they mean.*
http://www.protroll.com/res/online_books/black_box_11.jpg
Every boat takes on a natural electric charge in the water because of the different metals reacting with the minerals in the water. The zincs on the motor will be positive in charge. This drives the other metal parts on the boat to a negative charge. Any unconnected metals like downrigger cable will take on a positive charge.

Now I'm really going to step in to the cow pie.* When it comes to a hot boat.* Take your zinc anodes off and clean them with a stainless wire wheel or brush.* There are typically two on each motor and probably two more on your boat.* Get them to shine brightly.* Don't expect the first one or two trips to be red hot but the second or third should be a dramatic improvement. Some will say Bull S---. I'll just say, it's just a little time and effort and much much cheaper than a new fishfinder.* It's worked for me.* And for a second opinion check with GVF.*

I'm not saying you need a black box, just clean the anodes!*
ref: http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=1

BTW, I clean mine about four times a year, sometimes more often.

retired
02-24-2010, 12:34 PM
Dennis you hit it right on the nose.I had the same problem with my boat a couple years ago. Also if his kicker motor is not a elec. start. He may want to run a ground wire from the motor to his battery. Retired.

June first
03-03-2010, 01:43 PM
Thanks for the link Dennis, great reading 8-)
I can catch fish with long setbacks at Camanche, but I am looking forward to this spring/summer. Last year, I would be in a fleet of boats, dragging the same lures, same depth, same speed, everyone would be limiting out, I would get a fish or two???
Alot of that reading sounds just like my boat, but when I tested the voltage last weekend, it started with .480 with everything off to .780 with EVERYTHING in the boat on...... even the UHF keyed up.
Those numbers seem OK?
I cleaned my zincs a couple months back, not sure if it was with* STAINLESS BRUSH........ guess I will clean them again.
Any other ideas? I need to get this figured out before the kokanee/kings want to come out and play :-/ >:(
Thanks again,

Dennis
03-08-2010, 03:48 AM
My guess is that one item isn't grounded correctly. .780 is high. I like to fish between .590 and .650 using the PIC on my Cannon's

I'd start with everything off and then turn one thing on at a time, check the voltage, then turn it off, then do the same with the next circuit. If you see a large jump on the voltage, check the wiring on that circuit.

Also check the cables too and from the motors. Make sure they're clean and tight. I wouldn't expect to find a problem here as you stated that it's low to start then climbs to .780. But it wouldn't hurt to take a look.

Every circuit should have a ground wire either running to a common post then back to the batteries or directly to the batteries. This is not like a car or a truck where the frame can be used as a ground. IMO, when using a common post the wire from the post to the battery should be of sufficient size to carry the voltage from all the circuits.

For what it's worth... On my boat, I run shielded 14 gauge two connductor wire from the batteries to the VHF, GPS/FF's and other high draw items like the Trollmaster Pro3. The shield draws off the RF induced voltage from adjacent circuits. This helps to draw off the static you might see on the FF or hear on the VHF.

June first
03-08-2010, 09:39 AM
Here are the actual numbers from my testing.....
.48 perko off
.52 T-8 and TR1 on
.51 stereo on
.51 Lowrance on
.60 all lighting on, (dome, running, and deck lights)
.64 UHF on but not mic not keyed
.70 UHF with mic keyed
I was mistaken on the 780 number I gave you earlier :-[
All wiring I have done on this boat has been exactly as you said, grounded back to the battery.
I bought the boat used, and the only thing that I have not rewired is the UHF....... I will look into the wiring on that to insure the negative goes back to the battery.
I was thinking of running a large (#8) wire from the negative battery post to a junction block under the dash and terminate all of my negative wires to the block. Would you reccomend this? Or would I get static from doing this??
The link you posted from pro troll said you don't want any more than a .05 jump from any circut...... this tells me to check out the lighting circut and the UHF circut?
I think I may be on the right path........... :-/
Thanks for your help 8-) 8-)

Dennis
03-10-2010, 11:02 AM
I was thinking of running a large (#8) wire from the negative battery post to a junction block under the dash and terminate all of my negative wires to the block. Would you recommend this? Or would I get static from doing this??
The link you posted from pro troll said you don't want any more than a .05 jump from any circuit...... this tells me to check out the lighting circuit and the UHF circut?
I think I may be on the right path........... :-/
Thanks for your help 8-) 8-)

Bilge pumps, aerators and motors like windshield wipers will most likely create static on the common ground. For that reason, I've isolated the GPS/FF with it's own dedicated shielded positive and negative. The same with the VHF. My 36 volt 101# thrust trolling motor also added static so to minimize it's impact the shielded wire helped quite a bit.

When I mention shielded wire, this is what I'm writing about. The wire is encased in a shield that is used to capture the rf induced signal or static. I've been running the shield to the hull as I didn't want to create another path to the negative post. As this is only capturing the rf induced signal it shouldn't create any voltage issues.

http://www.fishsniffer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3&stc=1&d=1268246913

I'd also look into the VHF antenna. Based on your numbers there maybe a problem with the antenna or the antenna lead. It almost looks like the jump when the mic is keyed indicates a center conductor partially shorted to ground. Maybe the antenna foam core has lost it's resistance at some point along it's length. Inspect the cable at areas where it goes through bulkheads looking for any deformity.

Rockezra
03-14-2010, 11:37 AM
Is anyone having trouble with missing areas on the maps with the HDS-8 Insight version? I loose all contours north of Decker Island pretty much due east all the way past Tower Park,past I-5, nothing on the Mokeulume, Georgina and three mile slough, cache slough, deep water channel, Sac River from Decker north and other areas! Help!

Dennis
03-15-2010, 10:11 AM
Is anyone having trouble with missing areas on the maps with the HDS-8 Insight version? I loose all contours north of Decker Island pretty much due east all the way past Tower Park,past I-5, nothing on the Mokeulume, Georgina and three mile slough, cache slough, deep water channel, Sac River from Decker north and other areas! Help!

Rockezra, I think I saw another thread somewhere that indicated an issue with some of the early Insight versions. A patch or an update should be coming out soon to correct the map issues. As I understand the issue is with the map data not the HDS unit. I'm using Navionics charts so I can't confirm.

Rockezra
03-15-2010, 12:20 PM
Thanks Dennis,
What version of Navionics is best for the delta regions that I'm having issues with? Premium?
Thanks again ..........Rick

Dennis
03-16-2010, 03:47 PM
Rick,
I'd get with Lowrance and see about getting a fix. Navionics will cost anywhere from $100 to $200.
I'm using the Hotmaps Platinum+ and it will display the delta and near coastal areas, but it's $200.00 at Cabelas.