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ReelJerks
12-28-2009, 06:32 AM
So I finally had my chance to test out the ReelJerks for the first time since her re-outfitting. The new HDS is really something! For it's first test drive I left the unit in AUTOMATIC, however I did switch between the Airmar and the OEM transducers. I wasn't as happy with the Airmar as I was when used in conjunction with a LMS unit. This may be because I have it running through a transducer A/B switch. The best news is I NEVER lost bottom signal at WOT.

I have minor screen noise almost continually. I shut everything (sans engine) off and still had the noise. I may be collecting the noise from the fuse block thru which the HDS runs. Direct to the +/- terminals of the block for next trial.

Screen Captures......I have some, but, because of Navico's infinite wisdom this step is now much more difficult to bring inside. You no longer have an option to save 'anywhere'. Everything is saved to the HD and you must transfer files to the SD card. Sitting in my boat on a cold day selecting files and transferring them is not my idea of fun. I'll probably get another power cord and an inverter so I can do this in the house.

The HDS menu system......now this is really hilarious. Actually it's probably not as bad as I make it sound. What I did to help me was to index certain parts of the manual with Post-It's.

The transducers mounting is perfect. I can see all 4 rigger weights from either the Port side ducer or the Starboard ducer.

We ran all 4 riggers at both 5 and 10 foot separations without any fouling through some pretty good turning maneuvers. The only change on the water from the garage install was tweaking the stops.

I'll post more after next Friday's adventure.

Edd
Oh Yea.. the fish! We had 2 hits no sticks.

GN.
12-28-2009, 10:04 AM
It's always a mixed bag when trying out new electronics. I had to run a dedicated shielded power source before mine behaved its self. The fuse block wasn't a good power source.

I was also very pleasantly pleased that mine would hold bottom at over 40mph. It not only kept a lock on the bottom but the screen remained clear enough to see what's down there too.

ReelJerks
12-28-2009, 11:10 AM
Right you are GN. I was skeptical of the fuse block connection, but it looked soooo clean I just did it. I can simply move the wire back to it's original location and all should be well. [smiley=horn.gif]

Just in case.....where did you buy your shielded wire?

Thanks,
Edd

GN.
12-28-2009, 11:31 AM
One of the engineers at work gave it to me but I think I know where I can get some at a reasonable price. If you'd like I can check into it.

airmec
12-28-2009, 12:29 PM
There is some ANCOR 10awg shielded marine wire on ebay for $2.75 a foot

GN.
12-29-2009, 12:31 AM
How many feet do you need? The engineer had another piece he said i could have. I was wrong about it being shielded . It isn't twisted enough to be shielded and it doesn't have
a wrap either. It's 12awg 2 conductor tinned boat cable. It's jacketed so it's easier to pull also.*

ReelJerks
12-29-2009, 01:16 AM
How many feet do you need? The engineer had another piece he said i could have. I was wrong about it being sheielded. It isn't twisted sheilded enough to be sheilded and it doesn't have
a wrap either. It's 12awg 2 conductor tinned boat cable. It's jacketed so it's easier to pull also.*


Thanks for your offer GN but I have plenty of marine wire* ;) and that is exactly how it's wired now.

And thanks to airmec for the eBay lead.

Edd

GN.
12-29-2009, 02:58 AM
I understand Ed. I do have other sources. This would have been free. (the best price) I need to know what gauge and length you need. For example I found 14/2 foil shielded at Metro Electronics for .69 a foot. It's Belden 8720 https://edeskv2.belden.com/Products/#s=8720&r=0 I can probably find anything you need. Just let me know what your need are.

P.S. Sorry about the spelling and grammar of my previous post. It's a pain posting from a phone. :-?