View Full Version : Crab pot weight

11-15-2006, 11:02 PM
What's the recommended total weight a crab pot should be to remain stationary with the swells, current, etc. Need to find some weights, and I'd like to know how much to pick up.......Right now my traps are in the 6-7# range.

11-16-2006, 04:38 AM
I have added a five lb dive weight to each of my danailson traps but I dont fish them if its too rough. but so far have had good luck with them not moving much in a 48hr soak

11-16-2006, 07:23 AM
I have been wiretieing R/R spikes in the corners "8"total seems to work really well,plus they are free.

11-16-2006, 08:45 AM
i have added 10lbs to my danielson pots


11-16-2006, 09:28 AM
i have added 10lbs to my danielson pots


TSL, How deep do you fish with ten pounds of extra weight??
I fish with the five extra but only in 60-80 ft of water with 100 ft of line thats 8 or 10oz of weight on it

thanks FB21

11-17-2006, 11:14 AM
Good morning KRZYFSHRMN,
I have modified my danielson traps in several ways and they fish a lot
better than when stock. First i secure all corners with zip ties leaving one side untied so i can open the "trap" door. Then if you look at the four doors where the crab are to enter, you'll notice that if you set the trap on the ground say on a lawn, the bottom of the trap gate tends to hang up (this is what can happen when they slightly sink in sand) and limits it's fishability. What i do is cut about 1/2 inch off of the 3 downward prongs on each door making the door flap open and shut much more freely.Then on the center downward prong on each door i add about a 2 oz weight (i use a wheel weight and just tape it with black electrical tape)this makes it more difficult to get back out of the trap,which they can do pretty easy on a stock trap. I then cut four pieces of rebar about 18" in lengh and add these around the inside of the 4 TOP corners and zip tie in.(adding rebar to the bottom impaired the doors a little and for somme reason the crab didn't like walking over that rebar to get in. Total weight of the four rebar pieces weighed about 12 lbs. Next get 4 square bait holders (i like the orange ones) and instead of zip tying directly to the bottom i wired it in halfway between the bottom and the top( i noticed that when the bait was directly tied to the bottom it tended to get really sandy and full of muck and didn't fish near as well). Finally add a bait cup that you've drilled some larger holes in and snap or zip tie it in. Add fresh chicken or salmon carcass in the bait cage and chopped squid and mackeral in the cup and go to your favorite crabbing grounds and have a ball !!!! :D

11-17-2006, 01:00 PM
Great info on the trap modifications and baiting. I'll add this thread to the Crab FAQ's at the top of the board. Hopefully we'll get some more great input to add to what's here.


11-17-2006, 07:28 PM
Thanks for the tips Mackenzie......Great idea on zip tieing the sides together. I did that before I even read your post, I guess great minds think alike. ;)

I'll try and modify the doors before I drop pots tomorrow. Thanks again.......


11-17-2006, 08:18 PM
I've been following these crabbing threads from the beginning this year and have really enjoyed reading them. I've never gone crabbing but have learned a whole lot just by reading the posts, and I think "themackenize" just entered the running for the crabbing post of the year... Lot's of information and food for thought. Good post mackenize. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

11-19-2006, 04:39 PM
with the rebar on top will the pot set correctly or will the heavy side hit the bottom first?
meaning up side down

i make a bridle for my traps that attaches to two corners
i then add the weight to the bottom directly below the 2 corners with the rope
i zip tie 2 doors shut
the front next to the weight and the rear
the rear door will blow open with the current
i then tie 2 oz weights to the other 2 remaining doors
up the rope i add a crab line weight at about 10 feet
(plus 2 more 20' and 50' from the bouy)
this holds the rope on the bottom so as not to scare away Mr. crab
squid for bait lasts longer
up to a week
but a mackeral or fresh rock fish carcasses seem to draw them in quick
by tieing 2 doors shut my pots dont catch as quick but i think it helps hold the ones that enter

as for rope i use
200' for soaks at 150'
150' for up to 100'
100' for up to 75'


11-22-2006, 01:26 PM
Thanks for the response T.S.L ,
Zip tying the rebar along the top four corners balances the weight distrabution evenly and falls correctly to the bottom. I also "feather" the line down as i drop to also prevent that, also allowing me to gently set the trap on the bottom keeping it from digging in the sand and hindering the doors. The weights on the center post of each door seems to work great for them trying to get back out. I believe it also helps to have a 3 way harness connected to your rope and of course LINE WEIGHTS! Also agrred fresh bait outfishes old or frozen bait all day long. Went out sunday and got 26 in 1 1/2 hr soak up by arch rock(chicken and squid) keeping 20 jumbos for my parner and i. Went out tuesday as well for 9 in 45 min due to late start and bumpy conditions. Have a happy Thanksgiving everyone, turkey and crab!!

09-08-2009, 02:58 AM
Some great info. here - this will help me out. I have a couple of comments that may help others:

Themackenzie's idea of zip tying the corners of the Danielson pots is a great idea - I will do this as soon as I get home.

Themackenzie's idea of modifying the doors of the Danielson pots is also a great idea - I will also do this as soon as I get home.

Using iron or stell metal for trap weights is NOT a good idea. Metal sets up an electrical field in salt water as it corrodes (this begins immediately), and is probably why the crab don't like going over the rebar in Themackenzie's pots. This is also why commercial pot rebar is coated, and the good shrimp pots are made of plastic. I use small one pound lead (lead does not set up an electrical field) ingots - you just drill a hole in each end, and zip tie them in. Their smaller size also helps to minimize interference from the doors.

Lastly, regarding the door "interference" that
Themackenzie describes, it is also very helpful to use a depthfinder to avoid eelgrass and kelp beds when setting pots. This growth (particularly the longer eelgrass -6" or more in length) can jam doors very easily when the pot(s) are set in them blindly. You can deduce when this is happening by obswerving the pots when pulled. A pot set in these areas will come up with kelp and eelgrass clinging to the pot, and a few small crabs in the pot (they can get around the jammed doors more easily). It's best to set alongside these areas in clear patches of sediment, as observed on the fishfinder.

Hope this helps - I'm not sure if California has the same type of eelgrass we get in Washington, but the beds in front of my home have plants (eelgrass is the only true marine "plant" in mainland USA Pacific coastal waters - the others are all algae) that can be 3'-4' in length. :)

09-08-2009, 09:04 AM
Update on my traps, I have replaced the R/R ties with 28 oz torpedo's in all bottom corners. adding a total of 7#'s of lead. It fishes good to about 175ft.