View Full Version : Need Info on Trolling For Trout

02-27-2008, 03:29 PM
I usually fish for bass up in camance but have always wanted to fish for trout. I usually use powerbait but hear its not as effective as trolling. I have no idea what I need or how to do it. SO if you vets could point *me in the right direction or give advice on how to get started is helpful. I know you guys use rapalas ,dodgers etc but have no idea how to use em or the best conditions or time to use them. Also is it possible to troll on rented boats from camanche?? ANy info is great and good luck this season.

02-27-2008, 03:53 PM
If you're in the neighborhood, Fisherman's Warehouse in Manteca is having a free seminar Thurs. 2/28 at 6pm given by Danny Layne called "Winter Trout Fishing(top-lining)".

I'm not affiliated with FW, just passing along the email info sent to me.

02-27-2008, 04:02 PM
Here is the web site for Lake Comanche. The boat rental inforamtion is on it. http://www.camancherecreation.com/

I'm not clear on your question about trolling from rental boats. Are you asking if it is possible to do it, or whether rental boats are available at this lake?

02-27-2008, 04:03 PM
I second Clamkin's post about the free seminar. You can go and learn a lot of Danny, then pick his brain afterwords.

Two baits on Comanche that you have to have are Rapalas and Power Grubs. Firetiger and orange are two standards for both. You can catch trout by trolling out of the rental boats and now is the time to do it as the fish are right on top. They will start moving deeper in late March as it warms up so you would then need to add weight or have downriggers.

Read all the Comanche reports you can find on here as most guys give a pretty good report on what they were doing when they go their fish. From there its just practice.


02-27-2008, 05:35 PM
I second Clamkin's post about the free seminar. *You can go and learn a lot of Danny, then pick his brain afterwords.

Two baits on Comanche that you have to have are Rapalas and Power Grubs. *Firetiger and orange are two standards for both. *You can catch trout by trolling out of the rental boats and now is the time to do it as the fish are right on top. *They will start moving deeper in late March as it warms up so you would then need to add weight or have downriggers.

Read all the Comanche reports you can find on here as most guys give a pretty good report on what they were doing when they go their fish. *From there its just practice.


Thanks for the info as far as fishing from the boats but how fast am i suppose to be going while the line is out? Also i hear there are certain depths im suppose to be fishing, any thread indicating the riggin style would be great. Imma try to go to that seminar but i live way over here in oakland. Thanks again for dealin with such a newb.

02-27-2008, 06:41 PM
Don't overlook the Trout FAQ area at the top of this Forum section. It's loaded with hours worth of good reading including a thread specific to trolling.

02-27-2008, 06:58 PM
Feelthereel *;)

Trolling for trout I use a Penn reel, and a limber rod--lead core line, with about 30 " of mono for a leader, I never use blades or Dodgers, just tie on a #2 or #3 Needlefish lure, I like the Firetiger or the red dot frog--troll @ 1.9 with about 3.5 colors of lead-core out.

Good Luck * Buz

02-27-2008, 07:56 PM
My main focus, no matter what lure you are fishing with test it along side your boat. Start out slow (0.5 mph) and speed up until you find the right action or wobble you expect out of that lure. Too many times I have made the mistake of letting a lure out, trolling for an hour without a hit, only to bring it in and realize I was trolling too slow to get any kind of actiom out of the lure.

02-27-2008, 09:52 PM
oakie, thats the best advice i've seen in a while......for those of us who dont have fancy GPS equipment, speed sensors, or sensitive boat speedometers, you have to rely on how different lures swim or track at different speeds and how it translates the motion to the rod.....stay in touch with that rod after you let line out and it'l tell you if the lure is continuing to fish rite or not...

02-27-2008, 10:11 PM
I have rented boats out there several times, and yes they will idle down well enough to troll. As far as speed goes, that has alot to do with what you are trolling with and what the fish are keying in on, more on this later.
The three basic styles that I know of and use are as follows.
Naked: this is what ever lure you are using tied directly onto your line (no flashers)(You will also hear people use this term to describe whether or not they have tip'd there lure with a worm or something else). Examples of lure's for this type of fishing would be Rapala's, Kastmasters, Dare Devils etc. (the list is long). Now as far as riging goes, I like to use no more than 8lb. line (I have been using 10lb braid with 2lb diameter and really like the results). If you are using a lure that has a lip (Rapala or other) this time of year you don't necessarly need any kind of weight. These type of lure's (Rapala's) can be attached directly to the line (since they don't spin). If you are using a lure without a lip, most likely you will need a small splitshot or two or a 1/4oz.-1/2oz. inline sinker to keep it from hopping around on the surface (many people like to use lead core line to get their rigs down to the desired depth's. I don't, I find that inline weights or sinkers do just fine, cost less and in my opinion spook fish less). For these lure's (without lips) you will need to use a swivle with at least 16" of leader behind it (otherwise your main line will twist as the lure spins, and this is not good). Tie the swivle onto your main line then the weight (if your using an inline weight)(if your using splitshots I like to put them above my swivel) then the leader with your lure at one end and a loop at the other. I like to put 16"-24" of space between my swivle and my lure. You can fish these lure's tip'd (if they have a single hook) with 1/4 of a large nightcrawler or a small grub soaked in your favorite stink.
Flashers: this is a tough one to make short because there are sooo many types of flashers and way's to rig them, but here goes. There are willow leaf flashers, cow bell flashers, colorado flashers and ford fender flashers (most of these names describe the shapes of the blades) to name a few. Most of these also come in large, medium and small sizes, and more colors than I care to list. Everyone has there preference and ideas as to what works best and under what conditions. I won't get into this because it would take way to long. All Flasher rigs must use a swivle. My favorite rig to start a beginner on is a Mack's triple willow leaf silver flasher set, followed by a wedding ring (you can substitute any lure of your choice here) 18"-24" back, tip'd with 1/4 of a large nightcrawler. Or if you can't find Mack's, Ford Fenders are great and usually not hard to find (I don't know if they are the original flasher or not, but when I was a kid it's all anyone used). I like Mack's because its got two small flashers followed by a larger one. In the water it looks like a big fish chasing a couple of minnows. Weight it as needed just like above. I find that with large flashers and a slow troll, this time of year don't use more than 3/4oz. of weight, because this will put you to deep (and you might snag up on the bottom). If you have this much weight or more on and your still staying on top. Your trolling to fast. All of the different size's and colors have the place and time that they work best. But I find that one set of flashers in silver and one set in brass (both in med. or large) is a really good place to start. Some people believe that you should use silver flashers only on overcast days or down deep. And use brass flashers on brite sunny days or in the top 10'. I've found that they both catch fish in almost any situation. The only thing close to a pattern that I've found, is that when the water is gin clear an perfectly calm, brass does seem to work better. But not always! Well that's flashers in a nut shell.
Dodger's: I only know of three types. The dodger, side dodger and sling blade dodger (there could be more). These still use the same weighting techniques as above (now I must say that I have never used a side dodger before and am assuming that they are used the same way). Attach to the swivle (or weight if your using an inline weight) a leader (I find that for dodgers I like my leader to be a little longer 20"-28") followed by the lure of your choice. Lure selection is the same as above (pretty much anything from the trout section of your local bait and tackle store). Grubs (2" & 3") seem to be quite popular at Comanche, as is a nightcrawler on a #2 bait or worm hook. But remember, just about anything that you have for bass can catch trout. Just be sure to down size the bait/lure. I've caught many trout on small Rat-L-Traps pulled behind a dodger.
Trolling speeds: This one is really tough on a rental, since there is no real way to tell just how fast or slow you are going. If you are using a hard bait/lure you want to troll just fast enough to give it a good action. Understand that some Large flashers will drag to much to allow some hard bait's/lure's to be pulled fast enough, to get that good action, with out using a fairly stiff rod (at least med. action). I find that generally the larger the flashers the slower you can troll, but I tend to steer away from Rapala type lure's when using them due to the slow speed. Dodger's tend to need to be pulled a little faster to get that good flash off of them. This is when I pull out the Rapala type lure's. But the key here is to experiment. The goal is to find what speed and size the fish are keying in on.
On a rental boat large flasher set ups can be fished from idle to the next twitch of your wrist above idle. Dodger rigs can be fished from one twitch above idle up to three twitches above, usually (that's the best way I know how to describe it).
Trollin' for the inexperienced can be a trial of patients and an exercise of frustration. So don't be down on it, or yourself, if at first you don't succeed. Remember after all, it's fishing, have fun *[smiley=yahoo.gif]!!!!!!

If you ever wan't to go to Comanche or Pardee and learn this type of fishing from someone with a little experience. Drop me a line, maybe I'll let you rent the boat *[smiley=wink.gif] and I'll bring all the gear.
Good luck and "Tight Lines"

* Steve * aka * SSTiddy

02-27-2008, 10:15 PM
Another tip is to use a rod light enough, so you can see the tip action
which helps with the correct speed & action of your offerings.

Rods that are too stiff, are not the way to go..............

02-28-2008, 12:00 AM
damn you guys are awesome....i appreciate all the feedback , cant wait to get out there and try it out... if theres any more keep it coming. thanks

02-28-2008, 12:38 AM
Understand that some Large flashers will drag to much to allow some hard bait's/lure's to be pulled fast enough, to get that good action, with out using a fairly stiff rod (at least med. action).
Just one small addition. The above statment isn't worded correctly. I forgot to say that I use a 7 1/2' med light action rod for most conditions. But I have found that if I have to pull large flashers at a fast troll that a med. action rod of 7 1/2' or longer works better. Anything heavier would proably be to stiff for anything other than ocean fishing. I agree that you certainly dont want to use too heavy a rod, because a lite rod helps greatly in giving your rig action. You shoud use as light a rod as the conditions allow. Also I want to say that, as its been stated, watching your rod tip for good action is the key to knowing that everything is working like it's supposed to. And unless your using downriggers or holding onto the rod. It's the only way you will know when you get a strike. Learn the rhythm that your rig has. If you see somthing different, it's either "fish on", or something's wrong.

02-28-2008, 12:44 PM
Those are some great tips, good luck and have patience!

Tight lines.

02-28-2008, 06:18 PM
Since you are a Bass fisherman, conditions and water quality do play a role.

LEADCORE - Great tool for summer time or hold over trout. We sometimes pull almost 20 colors. Out of all the "bait" trolled behind leadcore, you can't beat a threaded NC. As for a lure, it really all depends on the shad size of that particular lake. I have trolled with 1/12 oz Kastmasters silver/Blue pattern and have the same luck as pulling a J7 Rapala firetiger.

FLATLINE - This is the way to go right now. Specially with the lower temperatures, fish tend to stay quite shallow. I would concentrate on trolling on points, or as close to shore as possible. I had sucess trolling Rapala CD5's to CD11 in the Brook Trout, Brown Trout, and Fire Tiger Pattern. I understand that species such as Macks tend to be deeper, yet my friend who fishes for them had sucess dropping Krocs at 200 foot depths, and cranking them up vertically as fast as he can to ignite a strike. ;) I also researched some other cranks which you can pull "flatline" between 25 feet to 75 feet behind the boat and have much sucess. Here they are.....

- Daiwa Minnow - Orange/Mirror
- Daiwa Minnow Yellow/Minnow
- Mirashad - Orange
- Mirashad - Pink

Try to get the ones that will dive the most.

Good Luck Out There!!!


Berryessa Kid
02-28-2008, 09:54 PM
I would recomend getting some downriggers.

02-28-2008, 09:59 PM
Down riggers !!

What.........You don't like realing in 20 colors of Lead Core !! ??

02-28-2008, 10:24 PM
Hey Owen,
Well it just goes to show that even an old fisherman can learn new tricks. After doing some talking about trollin', with some fisherman that have even more experience than me. I found out some things that I think you should know.
First off, the type of trollin' that they do around these lakes is a little different than what I grew up doing. While alot of things that I do transfer over just fine, some don't. I think that the biggest difference that has been pointed out is that since I'm used to trollin' with large flashers. I tend to use heavier rods than most around here do, and longer one's too. Since this time of year toplineing naked is the most popular and effective technique. *A 6'+ light to med light rod is as long and heavy as you need.
Another thing that was pointed out is that one company's light rod is another company's med. rod, is another company's med. lite rod etc.. What's more important than the power label (L,ML,M etc.), is the recomended line and lure weight, since this is the most accurate way of determining what the rod was intended for. So to clarify, when I say lite I mean a rod that is intended for use with 4-10lb line. When I say Med. light, I mean a rod that is intended for use with 4-12lb. line. And when I say med., I mean one that's intended for use with 6-15lb. line.
I hope that this helps to clear things up a little. And keep asking questions, I still do!!!!! *"Tight Lines" *Steve

02-29-2008, 09:47 PM
When it comes to planters, a Shasta Tackle Sling Blade Dodger, in Silver with pink tape, dragging a half night crawler 24-30" behind it, is hard to beat. If you are imitating shad, the same dodger with a Cripplure or Humdinger is killer.

03-01-2008, 08:23 AM
The Daiwa Minnow? Is that the Dr Minnow or the SC Shinner?

I heard these baits are hot........ and under 5 bucks.