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  1. #7
    Senior Member
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    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    I agree that doing yourself wouldn't be that difficult. Glassing a piece of plywood is not that tough. You can buy the cloth, rosin and hardener at west marine for under $50. Once the cloth is on, add 3-5 coats of rosin and you have a rock solid piece that can be used in you application.

    As far as drilling into fiberglass, I was nervous when I installed my transducer. But I just bought some marine silicon and but some on the threads before I screwed them in. I also used silicone on the heads of the screws afterwards. Take your time and you will be happy

  2. #6
    SturgeonVirgin
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    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hopsmacker
    Can anyone recommend a good fiberglass guy who can add an inner transom to my boat?
    As you can see from the green shaded area in the picture, I was thinking a piece aprox. 3 feet long by 14 high would do the trick. Having never worked with fiberglass, I hesitate to attempt this project myself. The thickness can be approx. 1. The main purpose of this inner transom is to prevent water from running into the rest of the boat when a wave comes over the outer transom, so it MUST be watertight. Also, there will be two holes for plugs at the base for water removal from the main deck.
    I appreciate any & all input & thanks for looking.

    Regards,
    Mark


    West Marine sells a booklet for about 3 bucks that will tell you all you need to know to do this yourself, pretty cheap. Its not a hard job at all.

    Check it out, you might be willing to do it yourserlf... ;)

  3. #5
    Senior Member
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    Apr 2003
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    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    Your construction doesn't need to be completely sealed in order to achieve the desired result. I had a 22' Grady White that had a drop down splash shield that was very similar to what you describe. It was just a simple piece of glass coated plywood that mounted to the deck with 2 stainless steel hinges oriented toward the cockpit . These allowed the shield to fold down to the floor which provided access to the low transom when fishing or scuba diving. You could walk on the folded down shield. When the shield was in the "up" position, it was secured by a stainless steel hook on each side with a connector ring on each bait well. There was no type of seal to prevent water from leaking through the small gap between the shield and the bait wells.

    A water proof seal is not necessary since when you take a wave over the transom, you are generally running in the trough. As long as the shield prevents the wave from washing into the main cockpit of the boat, most of the water washes out over the transom as you go up the next wave. I had 2-1 way scuppers through the transom that allowed any remaining water to drain out.

    This system was stock from the factory and worked very well. You could easily make a similar fold down shield with the material you have on hand. You just need to drill shallow holes in the deck for mounting the hinges.

  4. #4
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    May 2004
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    Prunedale, Ca
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    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    You guys are on the right track with your ideas. I did, in fact purchase the L brackets & a 3/4" thick piece of Seaboard to fit that area, along with a tube of 5200. When it came to actually drilling holes in the boat, I chickened out, thinking; "Why am I drilling holes, only to have to worry if they will be properly sealed or not". Also, a totally waterproof fiber glassed in area would assure no water leakage onto the main deck, as well as, into the boat structure.

    After being in the ocean last weekend, I know for sure that I need a totally water tight inner transom, with plugs of course. I am willing to sacrifice a little miss-match in the fiberglass transom for total water tightness. It gets real old real fast draining the boat after every drift, when taking on water through the cutout in the outer transom.
    Thanks for your replies.

    Regards,
    Mark

  5. #3
    dirtydan
    Guest

    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    Fiberglass - especially to match - may run a bit high. If you don't want to try yourself - what about a nice piece of mahogany or some other type of wood shaped to fit - attached with some stainless L brackets and a nice bead of 5200? It would do the job - be somewhat easy to install (and remove if you needed). Just drill a couple of holes for rubber plugs - and off you go.

    My $.02.

    -D

  6. #2
    Senior Member SuperDave's Avatar
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    Re: Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    Are you wanting to retain water in the tub created by the 2nd transom panel? Have you thought about mounting some aluminum channel on the sides and bottom so that you could simply drop a plywood, plastic, fiberglass or metal panel into the 3 sided frame? I was thinking of something that would function like a shower door or a tub enclosure.

    2003 Jetcraft SK215
    150 HP Yamaha, 8 HP Yamaha T8 & 80 Lbs Minn Kota Riptide, 2006 Dodge Dually

  7. #1
    Member
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    May 2004
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    Prunedale, Ca
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    Fiberglass work recommendation (see picture)

    Can anyone recommend a good fiberglass guy who can add an inner transom to my boat?
    As you can see from the green shaded area in the picture, I was thinking a piece aprox. 3 feet long by 14 high would do the trick. Having never worked with fiberglass, I hesitate to attempt this project myself. The thickness can be approx. 1. The main purpose of this inner transom is to prevent water from running into the rest of the boat when a wave comes over the outer transom, so it MUST be watertight. Also, there will be two holes for plugs at the base for water removal from the main deck.
    I appreciate any & all input & thanks for looking.

    Regards,
    Mark


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